On Emerald Trails

Ireland: A horseback-riding adventure from Kinnitty Castle is full of Irish charm.

By Cooky McClung
Special To The Sun
Originally published March 14, 2004

We emerged from the thickly forested crest of Slieve Bloom Mountain to emerald sweeps of pastureland unfolding down the hills, edging crystal streams and serpentine trails in one of those pastel Irish panoramas that stun the senses.

Bewitched as I was by this lush vista, clearly it was "same-old, same-old" for my traveling partner, who stood patiently snoozing in the sun while I etched the moment into memory.

A chestnut horse blessed with the build of Arnold Schwarzenegger and the disposition of Mother Teresa, Fifer was my companion and transportation throughout an exploration of County Offaly that offered sightseeing on the hoof -- and in the process uncovered a treasure trove of Gaelic nooks and crannies unseen by tour bus or car.

An active rider in years past, I was intrigued by a brochure that arrived last summer from Cross Country International, a company in Millbrook, N.Y., that offers equestrian trips around the world. Although nine grandchildren and three knee surgeries had passed since I'd last settled in a saddle, the trips sounded enormously appealing.

All Cross Country International staff are seasoned riders who personally evaluate each program. A call to the firm's reservation department assured me that even a rider who'd collected as much rust as I had would be provided with a horse to carry me safely through the countryside.

As a Marylander, history buff and granddaughter of Irish immigrants, I had no problem deciding where to go riding, and in less than a heartbeat I chose a package of five rides based from the legendary Kinnitty Castle in the spectacular midlands of southern Ireland.

With a history that stretches back to the 1200s, the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. In the 17th century, Kinnitty was one of three fortresses belonging to the O'Carroll clan, ancestors of Charles Carroll of Carrollton, signer of the Declaration of Independence. The castle had been rebuilt in 1630 by one William O'Carroll. More than a decade ago, the current owner, Con Ryan, renovated the massive palace into a "four-star castle."

From the moment my Aer Lingus flight touched down in Shannon, Ireland, on a bright September morning, cead mile failte (a hundred thousand welcomes) sprang to life. The customs agent greeted each sleep-deprived arrival offering up a passport with, "Sure, it's a glorious morning and don't you have a lovely smile!"

The final vestiges of my jet lag evaporated when I met Kinnitty Castle driver Seamus O'Reilly, who insisted we stop for a bacon and egg sandwich -- his treat -- before the two-hour ride to the castle.

The self-proclaimed "greatest gossip in all of Ireland," O'Reilly kept me in stitches as we headed along the picturesque roadway skirting rolling farmland and postcard-perfect villages. At one point, O'Reilly pointed out a 1,000-year-old cathedral, still used by the Church of Ireland for services and orchestra concerts.

I switched centuries the moment I stepped across the medieval threshold at Kinnitty and was welcomed into the fortress like a long-lost relative.

The castle incorporates modern luxuries without sacrificing historical or architectural importance. After walking up the grand staircase, past suits of armor, I entered a buttery-yellow suite complete with all the creature comforts, from a working fireplace and tasseled four-poster bed to a claw-foot tub in the bathroom that was so big you could do the backstroke in it.

Beyond the delicious sound of wind whistling through the turrets, tranquillity reigned, and for the next six nights I would revel in palatial luxury.

I was more eager to take a ride than a nap, and quickly changed into boots, britches and a heavy sweater. The daily Irish weather forecast unfailingly calls for "rain and shine," and visitors should prepare for both, though showers usually skid rapidly across the landscape rather than settle in for a long soak.

Rule No. 1 when riding in Ireland: Never tell the Irish what an accomplished equestrian you are, just in case they believe you. Horses are to the Irish what the ballet is to the Russians, and many youngsters learn to ride before they can walk, making the Irish among the most accomplished horse folk in the world.

Fortunately, Kinnitty riding guides Suzanne Murray and Sharon Coleman have the good sense to insist that guests "take a wee lesson" in the sand ring adjoining the castle's stables before heading into the countryside.

"We've found it's a good idea for people to take a few turns around the arena before we go out on the trails," Murray said diplomatically. "That way we won't have any surprises when we get into the forest -- and neither will they."

There was a wide choice of cross-bred Irish draft horses, thoroughbreds and "Cobs," (sturdy, small Irish horses) in the stable, and Murray and Coleman are expert at matching experience and temperament of horse to rider.

I was fortunate to find love at first sight with Fifer, who carried me safely over meadows and rocks and roads during five of the most memorable days of my life.

Although six riders at a time often take part in the daily treks from Kinnitty, I was the sole equestrian participant that mid-September week, allowing me to choose the pace and place of our rides. The destination of each trek is determined by the weather, terrain, and stamina of the riders. Blessed with perfect autumn temperatures, we spent the first day meandering through the lush landscape of Kinnitty Forest, leading into the Slieve Bloom Mountain.

Though he'd passed away several centuries before, William O'Carroll's spirit seemed to linger in his 60,000-acre back yard, surely sharing our sightings of stags, foxes, rabbits, birds and other wildlife that find sanctuary in this lovely preserve.

As noon approached, we hopped off our horses for a picnic next to a quaint log cabin alongside a stream that burbled mountain music while we devoured slices of salmon tucked into thick Irish brown bread. We finished off the meal with tea, fresh fruit and cookies.

Though I could have curled up on the grass for a nap, my successful ride after eons out of the saddle encouraged me to continue exploring the green groves, fields and valleys that give the Emerald Isle its name.

By the time we returned to the castle that afternoon, however, my muscles were protesting, and I stopped in the spa for a soothing hot-rock massage. That, followed by a soak in my queenly tub, left me kink-free and able to enjoy a drink and conversation later with guests in front of the library's cozy fireplace.

Comforts of the castle

Even when the castle's 37 bedrooms are full, the sheer size of the palace gives guests plenty of room to roam.

If you believe Irish fare is more hearty than imaginative, Kinnitty chefs quickly put the belief to rest, providing an extensive menu pleasing to the pickiest palate. The bounty of Gaelic cuisine certainly satisfied this galloping gourmet.

After a sumptuous four-course dinner in the elegant Sli Dala dining room, I should have been more than ready to tuck myself into my feathery four-poster. Instead, I was lured into the Dungeon Bar by the haunting music of Patrick Bergen and the Spirit Merchants, who provide regular entertainment for castle guests.

(A talented musician, Bergen is also a fine actor, best remembered in the lead role opposite Julia Roberts in the film Sleeping With the Enemy.)

On other evenings, we were entertained by the landlord himself, as Con Ryan added his banjo to the mix. He was joined by his friend Sean Ryan, a tin-whistle player and owner of neighboring Leap Castle, known as "the most haunted castle in all of Europe." After one such performance, I chatted with Sean Ryan about his spooky home and was so intrigued that I was up early the next morning, eager to head for the site of ghosts and goblins.

My plan to grab a quick breakfast before mounting up, however, disintegrated the moment I entered the dining room. Special K and skim milk do not a breakfast make for the Irish. I fortified myself with a royal repast of sausages, tomatoes, scrambled eggs, toast heavy with sweet jam, juice and coffee.

Exhibiting impeccable manners, Fifer seemed unaffected by my adding a few pounds for him to carry. He effortlessly extended his legs as I followed Murray into Clareen Village, where I examined the ruins of St. Kieran's Ab-bey, built around 839, and paused to make a wish at St. Kieran's Bush. Legend has it that if you tie a cloth to the branch of this "wishing tree" and make a request, it will be answered.

Finishing a relaxing ride along wooded paths and across gently rolling hills, we arrived at Leap Castle. Home to at least 50 disembodied spirits -- or so it is said -- the fortress is a poltergeist paradise.

Sean Ryan, who makes it a point to welcome visitors himself, shared the story of 50 Scottish soldiers who traveled to Leap Castle to receive payment for their part in helping the Irish scuttle the enemy in battle, only to be slaughtered. It is said that their spirits roam the halls.

Another tragedy occurred in what is called the Bloody Chapel, when one brother killed another, a priest, who had the audacity to start Mass five minutes early.

"Oh, there's ghosts here for sure. Their presence is felt everywhere. But they're just a bit timid about publicity," Ryan said.

Dozens of day trips

As one who loves to travel, but hates packing and unpacking, I found my trip much less complicated by my being able to stay in a single place, particularly one as posh as Kinnitty Castle, and still be within a short distance of dozens of intriguing day-trip sites. "Some of the places we go take hours by horse and minutes by car," said Murray. "So, if a rider is accompanied by someone who chooses not to get on a horse, they can easily meet up every place we go. It's just that I think we have much more fun getting there," she added with a grin.

Surprises awaited us no matter which direction we headed, from the astonishing five-county view seen atop a mountain lookout to our jaunt into the village of Cadamstown (five minutes by car, four hours by horse), where I learned more in a "pub sit-down" with local historian Paddy Heaney than in all the guidebooks I'd collected.

At 82, Heaney is a great source of information. Blessed with the gift of gab, and happy to share details of the area, he served up history with knowledge and bit of blarney, much to the delight of all within listening range.

Although each day's ride offered a number of sites to please lovers of history, architecture and scenery, my favorite day was visiting Birr Castle. The last of my treks, it was also the one on which I felt most confident, having spent dozens of hours aboard Fifer without parting company. With my confidence at a peak, even Murray's announcement that this final ride would be a "brisk one" failed to strike fear in my heart.

Delighted to be allowed to stretch his legs, Fifer gobbled the miles with his long stride as we headed across stream beds and up and down steep slopes to the castle.

The private residence of the Earl of Rosse and his family, Birr Castle itself is off-limits to visitors, but its sensational reflecting telescope, built by the third Earl of Rosse in the 1840s for scientific experimentation, and its 100 acres of world-famous gardens, first laid out in the early 1700s, are open to the public.

The gigantic telescope, complete with mirrors and tubes, remained the largest in the world for 75 years after it was constructed. An added bonus to a castle visit is the Birr Scientific and Heritage Foundation's display in the renovated stables, which includes examples of astronomical, photographic and engineering devices used by early lords of the manor.

I could easily have spent a full day just wandering about the kitchen garden, the extensive collection of exotic trees, plants, and formal gardens, and wildflower meadows and lakes that surround Birr Castle.

Alas, it was soon time to leave, and I headed back to Kinnitty for one last night of pampering. The next day, I kissed Fifer on the nose, said goodbye to new friends and headed home, wishing I could return for the March 17 bash, when riders will be invited to take part in the town's extravagant St. Patrick's Day Parade.

But I will be back, and next time, my husband promises to come with me. Though he can't be coaxed to ride, between the golf, tennis, fishing, hiking, biking and shooting to choose from, I doubt he'll even miss me.

Or, as I overheard one nonriding guest remark, upon arriving on a return trip with her equestrian spouse: "Last year, I hardly ever left the castle, and it was the best vacation of my life."

When you go

Getting there: Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com; 866-886-8844) flights from BWI depart at 7:10 p.m. and arrive at Shannon Airport at 6:50 the next morning. Some one-way fares (based on round-trip travel) during March start at $114.

Cross Country International, P.O. Box 1170, Millbrook, NY 12545 800-828-8768 www.equestrianvacations.com

• The Kinnitty Castle ride includes a seven-night stay with five days of riding (April-September, $2,095 per person; October-March, $1,940 per person) or a five-night stay with four days of riding (April-September, $1,495 per person; October-March, $1,400 per person). There is no "single supplement fee" for castle accommodations.
• The package includes castle accommodations, all meals, guided trail riding, horse, tack, guide and tax. Other activities include, golf, tennis, hiking, biking, shooting and fishing.
• Kinnitty Castle is a 37-bedroom historic palace with all the luxuries of modern life. There is a health club and tennis courts on the premises, along with several beautiful dining rooms and a pub. For more information about the castle, visit the Web site www.kinnittycastle.com.

For more information about visiting Ireland, contact the Irish Tourist Board: 212-418-0800; www.ireland.ie